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cooking
ICH Elements 91
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Kimjang, making and sharing kimchi in the Republic of Korea
Inscribed in 2013 (8.COM) on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity As the temperature falls in late autumn, the topic of choice for most Koreans is kimjang, making a large quantity of kimchi to sustain them through the country’s long and harsh winter. Kimchi, a categorical name for Korean-style preserved vegetables seasoned with local spices and fermented seafood, was recorded as part of Korean diet as early as 760 years ago. Kimchi has been an essential part of Korean meal across class and regional differences. The most humble meal consists of cooked rice and kimchi, but even the most luxurious banquet is not complete without kimchi. Kimjang incorporates Koreans' understanding of their natural environment, and closely reflects their regional ecosystems. Over time, Koreans have developed methods that best fit their specific natural conditions. Kimjang is thus deeply rooted in the natural milieu of Korean habitats. Preparation for kimjang follows a yearly seasonal cycle. In spring, households secure shrimp, anchovy, and other seafood for salting and fermenting. In summer, they purchase sea salt to be stored for up to two or three years, to let the bitter taste of brine out. In late summer, red chili peppers are dried and ground into powder. In late autumn housewives carefully monitor weather forecasts to determine the optimal date for kimjang: it is important to choose the right temperature for the kimchi to acquire the best taste through storing it in cool and stable conditions. In the custom of exchanging kimchi among households after kimjang, innovative skills and creative ideas are shared and accumulated.
South Korea 2013 -
Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Year
WASHOKU is social practice based on a comprehensive set of skills, knowledge, practice and traditions related to the production, processing, preparation and consumption of food. It is associated with an essential spirit of respect for nature closely related to the sustainable use of natural resources. WASHOKU has developed as part of daily life and with a connection to annual events and is constantly recreated in response to changes in human relationship with natural and social environment. Basic knowledge, social and cultural characteristics associated with WASHOKU are typically seen in New Year’s cerebrations when Japanese people immerse themselves in their tradition transmitted from generations to generations, thus reaffirming their identity and continuity. WASHOKU in New Year’s celebrations are regionally rich in diversity, given that each province has its own historical and geographical specificity. People make various preparation to welcome the deities of the incoming year; pounding rice cakes, preparing special meals such as beautifully decorated dishes called Osechi, Zoni and Toso, using fresh locally available ingredients each of which has a symbolic meaning. These dishes are served on special tableware and shared by the family members, or shared collectively by the community members, ensuring peoples’ health and social cohesion. This provides an occasion for elderly persons to teach the meanings contained in this social practice to the children. In daily life, WASHOKU has important social functions for the Japanese to reaffirm identity, to foster familial and community cohesion, and to contribute to healthy life, through sharing traditional and well-balanced meals.
Japan 2013 -
Traditional knowledge related to making of flour products (komoch nan, jupka, boorsok, mai tokoch, kalama, kattama, tandyr nan)
Traditional Kyrgyz cuisine has a long history. It has been evolving for centuries and adapting to new conditions. There are various types of flour products popular in the country. The most popular is ‘boorsok’ - square shaped pieces of yeast dough fried in oil. Boorsok is important dish of all celebrations, holidays, funerals. Another widespread flour product is ‘jupka’. ‘Jupka’ is a flatbread prepared from unleavened or leavened dough based on flour, salt and water, milk and butter. The dough is rolled by hand or using a dough roller into round shape. In some communities of Kyrgyzstan, flatbread is baked in earthen or stone ovens called ‘tandyr’ buried into the ground. Kyrgyz cuisine contains different types of bread ‘nan’ such as ‘tandyr nan’ (baked in tandyr), ‘komoch nan’ (pan-fried bread on an open fire), ‘mai tokoch’ (bread fried in the oil), ‘kattama’ (bread baked in a frying pan with a large amount of butter or kaimak – fatty sour cream. Often kattama is filled with onions).
Kyrgyzstan -
Traditional knowledge related to making of dairy products (airan, suzmo, kurut, ezhigey, melted butter)
Kyrgyz people usually fermented dairy products. It can explained by the fact that fermented dairy products was the best way to preserve and consume milk. Main fermented cow dairy products are: ‘airan’ -yoghurt like product, which is fermented 5-6 hours; ‘suzmo’ which is prepared by adding some salt into airan. Suzmo also serves as a main ingredient for other dairy product such as ‘kurut’ (dried balls, made out of suzmo). Kurut used to be a snack in almost every household and has various types as ‘chii kurut’ or ‘mai kurut’. ‘Ezhigey’ is also one of the popular dairy products, which is particularly a cheese, made of sheep milk. Melted butter is prepared by boiling "kaymak" (fatty sour cream)
Kyrgyzstan -
Traditional knowledge related to making of beverage – ‘Kumys’
Since ancient times, nomads used to drink ‘kymyz’ from mare, cow and camel milk. Even now on ‘jailoo’ (pastures), the way of making kymyz remained the same as centuries ago. The most valued kymyz is made of mare’s milk. From spring until the late autumn, horses grace on mountain pastures. During this period, mare’s milk is collected. Traditionally, both men and women are engaged in the process. After the collection of the milk, it is poured into the leather bag ‘saba’ where the leaven of kymyz is always kept. Then the milk inside the cube is whipped thoroughly, for about half an hour using a stake. It takes about 12-15 hours for the kymyz to reach the condition.
Kyrgyzstan -
Traditional knowledge related to making of ‘Besh barmak’
Beshbarmak is one of the favorite traditional Kyrgyz dishes. Nowadays, none of the feast or festivities can do without preparing beshbarmak. Beshbarmak is boiled lamb cut into very small pieces and mixed with homemade noodles cooked in the lamb broth. It is served with an onion sauce called ‘chyk’ and broth (‘sorpo’). Traditionally beshbarmak is eaten with hands. That is why it is called besh barmak, which literally means five thumbs. When eating meat, guest sit in groups of two or four people. The plate with meat is given to each group. Within each group, the joints with meat are distributed according to the status of each person. Also, some beshbarmak is also left at the bottom of the big plate for those young women and men who were busy running errands outside.
Kyrgyzstan -
Ram Faat: Religious Festival of Lepcha Communities
The Lepcha community under Samtse Dzongkhag (district), especially the Limithang Chiwog (sub-block) under Samtse Gewog (block), conducts the indigenous festival “Ram Faat” annually. All the Lepcha in this community are Buddhist. It is a community festival where even the Lepchas as far as Paa Chu, Phuntsholing under Chukha Dzongkhag come to observe Ram Faat in Limithang chiwog. It is a five-day festival worshipping the God of earth for protection of their society and country from misery. During this festival, they propitiate the deities seeking protection from natural calamities such as earthquake, flood, landslides and well-being of all sentient beings. There is a strong belief that that their tutelary deity resides in one of the giant mountains where they locally call it as Zay Nga facing North east of their community Lhakhang (temple). Annually, Ram Faat is held for five days from 10th to 14th days of the 12th month of the lunar calendar. This is one of the Lepcha’s most intriguing festivals that the Lepcha community in the locality observe. It is unknown when the Ram Faat was initially introduced but it is conducted in one storied Community Lhakhang, Limithang Chiwog which is three hours drive on a rough feeder road from Samtse Dzongkhag. While the actual date of the establishment of the temple is not known, the head lama said that the Lhakhang used to be there during their fore fathers’ time indicating that the temple used to be there from 16th century. There was no evidence how the Lhakhang looked like before. It has only been five years now that the Lhakhang, with the help of the government support, has been face lifted with the concrete walls and aluminum corrugated sheets. The majestic Guru Rinpoche statue is the primary image in the main shrine room and also require two Choep/chogap (ritual performers) along with the head lama of the community Lhakhang. However, certain parts of the element seemed to have been lost. For example, when asked about the performance of the mask dance during the festival, the Lama (narrator) said that the practice of performing the mask dance during this festival had declined with the loss of the equipment (mask and dress) due to insects and pests. Today, no one in the community knows what kind of mask dances were performed during this festival. The Lama (also the narrator) seems to be frail and old, but he assured that he has two trained disciples in the community who will maintain the continuity of this festival even after his death.
Bhutan -
Pinisi, art of boatbuilding in South Sulawesi
“Pinisi”, literally referring to the rig and sails of the famed ‘Sulawesi schooner’, for both the Indonesian and international public has become the epitome of the Archipelago’s indigenous sailing craft. Construction and deployment of such vessels stand in the millennia-long tradition of Austronesian (‘Malayo-Polynesian’) boatbuilding and navigation that brought forth a broad variety of sophisticated watercraft, ranging from the outriggered boats that enabled man to migrate throughout the vast expanses of the Pacific and Indian Oceans to the massive ships encountered by the first European intruders into the Malay Archipelago. As in any maritime tradition, these practices involve sophisticated cognitive concepts that outline the three-dimensional form of a ship and its countless components as well as the advanced social organisation necessary to successfully build, operate and navigate trading vessels. Following centuries of mutual co-operation, the three communities now represent the pinnacle of the Archipelago’s boatbuilding and navigation traditions. In indigenous perception a ship’s hull is conceptionalised in the form of ‘plank patterns’ (tatta), i.e., comprehensive mental routines that delineate the configuration and assembly sequence of a hull’s planking, her inner strengthenings and the dowels holding planks and framing together. Deeply embedded into a series of rituals that complement the building process, these routines for many a traditional type of vessel define position, form and size of each plank, frame or dowel in a hull; for more contemporary ships the tatta provides an overall draught that can be adapted to changing constructional demands, thus facilitating perpetuation and enhancements.
Indonesia 2017 -
Traditional knowledge related to making of ceremonial dish – ‘Sumolok’
Sumolok is a ritual dish cooked by the entire community for spring holiday Nooruz. Sumolok is a brown, nutritious, sweet paste-like liquid dish. Children like eating it very much. Sumolok is cooked for 20-24 hours. Firstly, the oil is heated in a big pot (kazan), then the flower is fried in it and the first batch of mushed sprouts are added. When it starts getting thicker, the second and then third batches are added. When it starts boiling, it is put on slow fire for 5-6 hours. When it seems ready, the fire is put off and sumolok is left under its own steam. In the morning, the eldest women open sumolok and everyone looks at the surface of it. Various interesting lines form on the surface. They are used to make predictions for the coming year. When sumolok is cooled down it is served for the community members.
Kyrgyzstan -
Traditional knowledge related to making of – ‘Gulazyk’
Gulazyk is an ancient meal of the Kyrgyz people. It is meat made into powder. Preparation of gulazyk: salted meat was boiled and then dried in a cool, well-ventilated and dark place. Then, the meat was grinded several times with millstones until it turned into a very fine powder. Sometimes, the dried and grinded intestines of wild animals are added into gulazyk.
Kyrgyzstan -
Traditional knowledge related to making of meat products (chuchuk, zhorgoom, byzhy, olobo, tash kordo)
One of the main meat delicacies is a horse meat sausage called ‘chuchuk’. It was made out of horse intestine stuffed with horse meat and fat. Sheep meat and internal organs were used to make such delicacies as ‘jorgoom’ (made out of sheep lungs and stomach), ‘byzhy’ (a sausage made out of sheep liver, fat and blood) and ‘olobo’, that is sheep lungs filled with milk and boiled in water. Tash kordo is an ancient Kyrgyz dish. Literally, it means “food prepared on hot stones”. The separated and marinated meat is wrapped into the game skin and prepared in a hole in the ground about 1.5 m long and 70 cm wide, with stones at the bottom and sides hanged over the hot ashes.
Kyrgyzstan -
Palov culture and tradition
Palav culture and traditions have been included into the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016. Palov (or Osh) is the most beloved and highly regarded food among Uzbeks. It is spread in all regions of Uzbekistan. Palov accompanies Uzbeks throughout their lives. It is prepared on different occasions. These are: on the occasion of the birth of the first child (aqiqa); on the occasion of circumcision ceremony (sunnat toyi); on the occasion of engagement ceremony (fotiha oshi); on the occasion of seeing off a bride to the house of a groom (qiz oshi); in connection with wedding, for men only (nikah oshi); in connection with wedding, for women only (khotin oshi); after wedding, only for friends of a groom (kuyav oshi); on the occasion of child’s birth and carrying out “ beshikkasolish” ritual (beshik toyi oshi); on the occasion of commemoration of the deceased (ehsan oshi); on the occasion of anniversary of death day (yiloshi). Thus it serves to unite people for different events.
Uzbekistan 2016