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noodle
ICH Elements 5
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Traditional knowledge related to making of ‘Besh barmak’
Beshbarmak is one of the favorite traditional Kyrgyz dishes. Nowadays, none of the feast or festivities can do without preparing beshbarmak. Beshbarmak is boiled lamb cut into very small pieces and mixed with homemade noodles cooked in the lamb broth. It is served with an onion sauce called ‘chyk’ and broth (‘sorpo’). Traditionally beshbarmak is eaten with hands. That is why it is called besh barmak, which literally means five thumbs. When eating meat, guest sit in groups of two or four people. The plate with meat is given to each group. Within each group, the joints with meat are distributed according to the status of each person. Also, some beshbarmak is also left at the bottom of the big plate for those young women and men who were busy running errands outside.
Kyrgyzstan -
Sang: A-shey Lhamo
A unique female-dominated performance held only on the 8th and 9th day of the 7th lunar month in the two communities of Ura-ma-krong (main village of Ura) and Shingkhar, the farthest settlement under Ura gewog (block) in Bumthang Dzongkhag (district). In Ura dialect, Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) is usually called Saang (smoke offering). It is said that in the old days, when there were yak herders who usually came from their village to raise the yaks at Purshey la (one of the mountains overlooking Ura village), they welcomed the female performers by burning sang at Korgang (the place believed to be the place where the deity descends or dwells and where the female performers circumambulate the stupa). Hence, community members refer to the festival as Sang or Sang na gai-sang (on the way to the Sang offering). Another interpretation states that the female participants begin their offering by making various medicinal herbs and other fresh offerings go up in smoke while appeasing the main female deity named A-shey Lhamo and her entourage, namely Gawa Lhamo, Kiba Lhamo, Champa Lhamo, and Dropa Lhamo. However, in addition to the aforementioned attendant goddesses, Shingkhar A-zhi (pronounced locally) Lhamo has Lam-dron Lhamo forming five attendant goddesses. Therefore, the festival and performance were called Sang from the first offering. The other name of the festival, A-shey Lhamo, is interpreted literally by outsiders and some learned community members as the lyrics of the religious song sung and danced in honor of the deity A-shey Lhamo. Colloquially, the term A-shey is addressed to either the queen or the elder sisters, and Lhamo is a general term for the divine goddess. The origin of Sang or A-shey Lhamo is that during the Dung Lhawang Rabgay (local ruler), not long before the emergence of the Dung caste system in Bhutan around the 10th-11th century, there was a misfortune of Shey-ned (diarrheal infection) that spread among the children of the Ura community. People sought the advice of their ruler as there was no tradition of performing rituals or treatments. Thus, Dung Lhawang introduced Drakpa, who had a divine bloodline, to appease the female local deity by performing dances. He composed the lyrics in the typical Ura dialect and ordered that they be performed by female members of the community. The Lord also determined the place: Pur-shey la (written Pur-gyal la) along with the things to be sacrificed and also the steps. Following the advice, the women performed the dance, which gradually helped the children recover from the epidemic. After that, the performance of A-shey Lhamo was practiced. According to the origin, A-shey Lhamo and the goddesses accompanying her are both the deities of the place and deities of the Bon khar tradition. Perhaps they are the other form of Tshering chey nga (the five sisters of longevity) who appeared in the Bon tradition before they were introduced by Guru Padsambava as the tutelary deity of Buddhism, just as many Bonpo deities were later transformed as protectors of the sacred teachings of the Buddha. In the poetry of A-shey Lhamo, it is mentioned that they reside in the high mountains Gang-toed thoen po. The road to their citadel is like a mule track, filled with the sweet fragrance of Ba-loo (Rhododendron ciliatum) and Su-loo (Rhododendron setosum). She delights in the first share of Mar-chang Ara (locally brewed wine) and Kara and Buram (honey and brown sugar) and sits down on the white sheepskin mat. She resides gracefully in a palace of precious gems with golden columns and silver windows. Apart from the above description of her residence, there is no text describing her appearance, only the names of her sisters and the goddess herself. This ICh element is still alive in Ura and Singkhar communities. However, there are some changes: The sang is now prepared and offered by themselves since there are no more highlanders at Pur-shey la, and the other is that, according to tradition, the sang is generally performed on the 8th and 9th day of the lunar month but, the community members decided to either coordinate the festival on 15th day if the time and weather is not favourable.
Bhutan -
Kolok Noodle
It is said that Mi Kolok was brought in by the Chinese communities who migrated to Sarawak. Thus, this dish is abundantly served in Chinese food outlets. Other references include Mi Kolok in Malay, Kampua in Chinese, and Mi Rangkai/Kering in the Iban language. Basically this dish uses Yee Mee or dried mi served with slices of braised beef or chicken with its soup and sambal (hot chili paste). To prepare the gravy braise the beef or chicken till tender with soup condiments, salt and an adequate amount of water. Then slice the meat when cooked. Put aside the gravy as it can be reheated and water be added in when the amount has reduced. For the sambal grind some chilies with garlic then mix with sweet soy sauce and the juice of musk lime. Braise the noodle with a little salt till soft then drain. Heat a little oil, fry the sliced garlic till crispy then remove. Fry the drained noodle using the garlic’s oil remnant, then enhance with vinegar, fish sauce or soy sauce and salt. Remove and put aside. Fry the sliced meat, add in thick soy sauce, sweet soy sauce, black pepper powder and salt. Blend well then remove. To serve put the noodle into a serving dish and mix with a little of the sambal. Add in the fried sliced meat, fried garlic and garnish with sliced spring onion. Put aside a bowl of the gravy garnished with celery leaves for the soup.
Malaysia -
Num Banhchok (Khmer noddle)
“Num Banh Chok” is an important and popular traditional food because we often see Num Banh Chok being chosen to serve guests at various festivals. More importantly, there are some festivals such as DaLean, Bon Phum, Bon Leang Neak Ta, etc. The locals who come together for the festival always make Num Banh Chok at their own houses and then bring it as “a contribution to the festival” and eat together at ceremony. As a result, most farmers know how to make noodles. The rice used to make the noodles is a kind of Ksai rice grain and a kind of hard rice. First, the rice is soaked to make it soft and easy to grind. The rice is then washed and re-soaked in water, then grind with a mortar until it become flour. The flour is too liquid to make noodle. So, the flour is wrapped in a thin cloth and pressed with stones or heavy objects to drain the water until it hardens. The flour is covered with a cloth or thin fabric and boiled in hot water, but not too hot (about 50% boiled or called Krasang shell), then the flour is extracted and hit the mortar (now made by machine) until the flour mix well. The flour is then rolled into round long pieces according to the Pen. Pen of noodles is made of copper or Tung Deng with small holes to press the flour into noodles. The flour is then put in a Pen and press on the pen, and the noodles will fall into the boiling water. As the dough falls into the pot of hot water, a stick is used to stir and cut the front of the pen hole to cut off the noodles so that they are not too long. When it is cooked enough, the noodle is taken using a basket to wash and soak in fresh water. In the last step, the noodle is extracted from the water and placed in a basket to dry. They usually do not eat just noodles; they usually eat with soup by having many types of vegetables sprinkled on top or under the noodles. There are many kinds of soups such as Somlor Bror Her (called Khmer Soup), Somlor Kari, Somlor Namya. In addition, the noodle can be eaten with sweet-fish sauce with vegetable. But for the villagers, the so-called Somlor Num Banh Chok is Somlor Bror Her, and Somlor Kari and Namya are very rare, except for those who live in the town or city.
Cambodia -
Pyongyang Raengmyon custom
It is a customary social and cultural practice related with Pyongyang Raengmyon (cold noodle), on various meaningful occasions such as weddings, birthdays and holidays. Pyongyang Raengmyon is served in a brass bowl. The main ingredient is buckwheat regarded as conducive to health. The noodle strips are topped by trimmings of meats, Kimchi, vegetables, fruits and garnishing. Cool meat stock or Tongchimi (watery radish Kimchi) juice is poured around noodle strips to finish the preparation. There are certain knowledge and skills related to Raengmyon's taste and form. A historical record praising noodle in the 12th century reflects its development well before that time. Pyongyang Raengmyon is a special folk food deeply rooted in the life of Pyongyangites expressing long life, happiness, hospitality, convivial and friendly atmosphere. A day before Jongwoldaeborum (one of Korean folk holidays in winter), family members or neighbourhood would together enjoy noodles hoping their life to be as long as the noodle strips. At celebrations like birthdays and weddings, Pyongyangites serve it to elders, relatives, neighbours and friends coming with blessings, and share happy and delightful moments of life in a convivial and friendly atmosphere, fostering respect, intimacy and harmonious unity. Housewives make Raengmyon with great pleasure and devotion. To have some liquor before Raengmyon is a customary practice even set as a phrase "Sonjuhumyon". Expressing the common wish and aspiration of people, today, the element is practised and spreading beyond special occasions and regional differences along with establishment of scores of Pyongyang Raengmyon restaurants like Okryu Restaurant.
North Korea 2022