ALL
traditional costumes
ICH Elements 30
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Falconry, a living human heritage
Falconry is the traditional art and practice of keeping, training and flying falcons to take quarry in its natural state, and has been practised for more than 4000 years. It is one of the oldest relationships between human and bird. It probably evolved in the steppes of Asia, and spread via cultural and trade links to other countries, first to Europe, North Africa and East Asia and later in the 16th century to the rest of the world. The practice of falconry in early and medieval periods of history is documented in many parts of the world. The falcon and her prey have evolved together over millions of years; their interaction is an age-old drama. The falconer’s task is to bring the actors together on nature’s stage. Falconry as intangible cultural heritage is integrated into communities as a social recreational practice and a means of connecting with nature. Originally a way of obtaining food, falconry has acquired other values over the centuries, and is identified with camaraderie, sharing, and expressions of freedom. Nowadays falconry is practised by people of all ages in local communities in more than eighty countries. Falconry expresses itself in multiple cultural domains, in particular ‘social practices, rituals and festive events’, as well as ‘knowledge and practices concerning nature and the universe’. These include traditional skills, traditional knowledge about the biology and behaviour of birds and the environment, the making of traditional falconry equipment, as well as linguistic and artistic expressions found in idioms, painting, sculpture, poetry, rituals and music. Falconry has its own set of culturally-shaped traditions and ethics; while falconers come from different backgrounds, they share universal values, traditions and practices. Falconry is transmitted from generation to generation as a cultural tradition by a variety of means, such as mentoring, learning within families, or formalized training in clubs and schools. The process of transmitting falconry heritage activates not only the historical memory of the falconry community but also enriches its cultural identity. In recent times falconry has seen a renaissance. Falconry provides modern man with links to nature and strengthens local identities. It is an important cultural symbol in many countries. The modern practice of falconry aims at safeguarding not only falcons, quarry, and habitats but also the practice itself as a living cultural tradition.
United Arab Emirates,Austria,Belgium,Czech Republic,Germany,Spain,France,Hungary,Italy,South Korea,Kazakhstan,Morocco,Mongolia,Pakistan,Portugal,Qatar,Saudi Arabia,Syria 2016 -
Tamzhing Phag-chham: The Boar Mask dance of Tamzhing Monastery
Tamzhing Phag-chham is a solo mask dance with a mask made of a wild boar (Sus scrofa), which is very common on the Asian continent. The term "Phag-chham" sometimes has two different meanings; Phag-chham (tamzhing Phag-chham) and the other, the Phag-chham performed during the Raksha Mangchham (a theatrical mask dance of the Intermediate state). Tamzhing Phag-chham was originally composed by the Great Treasurer Terton Pama Lingpa (1450-1521) on the consecration of the temple Tamzhing Lhundrub Choeling on the 15th day of the Tiger Month (11th month) of the Wood Ox Year, which corresponds to the Gregorian year 1505, in Bumthang, one of the central districts of Bhutan. Later it was performed in other monasteries founded either by Terton himself or by his successors in most of the eastern and central parts of Bhutan. Phag-chham is among the most important and sacred mask dances in Tamzhing, and the festival "Tamzhing Phag-la Chod-pa" is also named after this dance, which is held every year from the 10th to the 12th of the eighth lunar month. It is performed by an amateur and can only be danced by the Chhamjug (the second leader of the mask dancers), who wears a wooden boar mask, exquisite brocade costumes with dangling skirts made of five eye-catching colored cloths, and holds two bundles of willow branches in both hands. The boar mask is considered one of the masterpieces of the founder himself, as are the dance steps themselves. Since the mask is considered sacred, it is received in a Chibdrel (traditional procession) when the dancer comes out of the Chhamkhang (preparation room). The origin of the mask dance lies in local tradition: Pema Lingpa was looking for a suitable place for his temple in the Choekhor valley when he saw a wild boar digging in the ground. He realized that this was a sign from the enlightened being Dorje Phagmo (deity Skt. Vajravarahi) to show him the suitable place. After the temple was built, he held a festival in honor of the patron deities during the inauguration as a symbol of gratitude. Since it is believed that the prophecy and the groundbreaking ceremony for the Tamzhing Temple was led by Dorje Phagmo, the festival is dedicated to her and is called Phagla-Chodpa. On the second day of the festival, Phag-chham leads the ground-breaking ceremony to sanctify the site before more mask dances are performed for the audience. Due to the unexpected loss of the Chham-yig (choreography manuscript) from the monastery many years ago, elders have regretfully found that the Phag-chham performed today no longer contains the complete steps and choreography. Elderly locals says that, at that time, there were more than 14 different types of steps, and due to faulty oral tradition, nearly 50% of the choreographies have been lost. The communities are concerned that without documentation, there is a risk of even more steps being lost and even new ones being added, as many of the artisans are either lay monks or farmers from the affiliated communities.
Bhutan -
Lkhon Bassac (Bassac Theatre)
“Bassac Theatre” Originally known as “Treung Khlok” Theatre, it originated in Kampuchea Krom Bassac District, Preah Trapeang Province (now under Vietnamese rule). Bassac troupe originally formed by the chief of Khsach Kandal pagoda (Kampuchea Krom) names of Sour and Lok Ta Cha Krun, as well as his students, Kru Kmoa, Kru Korn, and Kru Khla. During the 1930s, Lok Ta Cha Krun brought the Trung Khlok theatre to perform in Phnom Penh and other provinces along the Bassac River. The theatre also quickly gained popularity in Phnom Penh. At first, it was called "Theatre from Bassac District", then later abbreviated as "Bassac Theatre" and is still named today. Bassac theatre is performed in both speaking and singing and accompanied by the Bassac music. The theater genre is influenced by Chinese and Vietnamese operas. The female characters (princesses or goddesses) dress similarly to the characters in classical dance. The male characters (kings, gods, or giants) dress similarly to the male characters in Chinese or Vietnamese operas. But today, the male characters’ costume is also similar to the costumes of the actors in the classical dance, except that the giant characters still wear the same costume as before. The stage is often decorated with paintings of temples or artificial mountains. Bassac theatre often features artistic legends. Performances include sword fighting, stick fighting, or other martial arts or battle scenes. The songs are both traditional and modern. During the 1960s, the Bassac Theatre gained immense popularity. There were two famous characters that almost all Khmer people at that time knew until he was named the King and the Queen of Bassac, Lok Ta Saing Sarun and Lok Year Chek Mach. Nowadays, Bassac is included in the curriculum of the Secondary School of Fine Arts. Famous Bassac theatre teachers who have passed away, including Lok Ta Saing Sarun, Lok Year Chek Mach, Mrs. Un Wang, Mr. Sous Kanan, Ouk Si Phally, John (Battambang), Tapov, Tork Khmao, Em Samphon and Kru nhoun (Outstanding Tror musician).
Cambodia -
Khon, masked dance drama in Thailand
Khon is a highly-refined performing art that combines multiple artistic elements: musical, vocal, literary, dance, ritual and handicraft. It may have combined features of ancient genres: court ritual, martial art, and the shadow play. It tells the story of Ramakien – the localized Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Its many episodes depict the life of Rama, his journey in the forest, his love for his wife Sita, his army of monkeys, the fights with the army of Thosakan (Ravana), king of the giants, and his final victory. The dancers wear elaborately embroidered costumes. The giants and monkeys all wear masks that cover their entire head. The colours and shape of each mask are unique to each character. The drama is enacted through dancing, accompanied by a piphat classical xylophone ensemble, singing, and narration. Each major type of characters has a distinct mode of dance expression. The dance postures and movements, the music, and the repertoire have been handed down from generations since the 15th century. The masked dance performances form part of social practices such as royal cremation, cremation of high-ranking persons or revered monks, and celebration of sacred sites and temples. Dancers, musicians, craftsmen and other members of Khon community annually perform a ceremony to honour Khon masters of the past, teachers, and deities. During this ceremony, new members are initiated into the community. Khon performance is continually evolving with new interpretations, and the adoption of modern technology for stagecraft, whilst retaining its traditional intensive dance training and ritual.
Thailand 2018 -
Practices related to the Việt beliefs in the Mother Goddesses of Three Realms
Beliefs in the Mother Goddesses focus on the worship of mother spirits of three realms, which are heavenly realm, realm of water and realm of mountains and forests. Since the 16th century, Beliefs in the Goddesses have developed into a spiritual and cultural activity that has had a profound influence on social life and consciousness of the people. Followers worship Mother Goddess Liễu Hạnh as well as other spirits who are historical or legendary heroes. According to legends, Liễu Hạnh was a nymph who descended to earth, lived as a human being and became a Buddhist nun. She is worshiped as “The Mother of the World” and as one of the four immortals of the Việt. At temples, daily worship is organized by temple guardians. Main practices of the Beliefs include spirit possession rituals and traditional festivals among which the most notable is Phủ Dầy festival in Kim Thái commune, Nam Định province. The festival lasts from the third day to the tenth day of the third lunar month and includes rituals, folk performances, a procession of the Buddhist scripture and a “word arrangement”. Through folk cultural expressions including costumes, chầu văn songs, and dance in spirit possession rituals and folk performance in festivals, the Việt express their views on history, cultural heritage, gender roles and ethnic cultural identities. The power and meaning of the Beliefs resides in their ability to meet spiritual demands and everyday desires and to help them achieve good fortune in health, work and business.
Viet Nam 2016 -
Lkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet
Having originated in bhani, a type of drama, mentioned in at least 10th century inscriptions of Cambodia, Lkhon Khol today is performed by males, wearing masks with the accompaniment of pin peat, a traditional orchestra, and melodious recitation. It performs only episodes from Reamker, a Cambodian version of the Indian Ramayana. Lkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet is distinct from the generic form because its specific aim is to propitiate Neak Ta (guardian spirits of a place and its people; in this case the community of Wat Svay Andet), and in so doing, protect and make prosperous the community, its lands and harvest. When Lkhon Khol is performed especially during a fixed date after the New Year, spirit mediums are presented to facilitate interaction between the Neak Ta, performers and villagers. Spirit mediums, who predict the situation for the upcoming year, attend the performance and become possessed by the Neak Ta and then might get on the stage. When the spirits are satisfied by the performance, villagers are blessed by them, and if not, dancers will stop; the music continues; and the audience will fall silent and carefully listen to the spirits. Then the episode must be performed again. nIn Wat Svay Andet, Lkhon Khol has such spiritual significance in the community that some Reamker characters have become local deities in themselves. For example, on the campus of the monastery, a shrine for Hanuman (Monkey General) locally called Lok Ta Kamheng is built and venerated. The mask for Tos Mok (Ravana, King of the Demons) also lives and is venerated in a spirit house at the home of the family that has danced that role for several generations. In addition to the intrinsic specificity of the Wat Svay Andet form, some external differences are noted, such as the fact that three of the key roles are not masked. In fact their faces are painted white, indicating that they are neither mortals nor gods. The costumes, which are very refined with magnificent embroidery, are also different especially from those of the Battambang Troupe. Melodies for recitations are also different and richer. nLkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet is not performed by professional artists, but by the villagers themselves, and they do not perform for money but for merits and their community’s well-being. Everyone in the community is obliged to contribute, either by direct participation in the performance or by sharing support, e.g. financial or labor. Even villagers, who have migrated for work, tend to come back for the ritual and believe that if they don’t come, they could be struck by illness or bad luck.
Cambodia 2018 -
Tshemzo: The art of Tailoring, Embroidery and Appliqué
Tshemzo includes three forms of art - tailoring, embroidery and appliqué under one name. Tailoring involves stitching all kinds of garments while embroidery, which is called tshemdrub, and appliqué or lhemdrub are done for making thangka and thongdroel. According to Lam Nado (Druk Karpo, 1986), the art Embroidery called tshemdrub and appliqué was introduced in Bhutan by Drung Damcho Gyaltshen, secretary of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. He was not only a scholar but was also highly skilled in the art of Tshemzo. Later the art was widely spread by Penlop (Chieftain) Drakpa Jamtsho and Choeje (Nobility) Jamgon Ngawang Gyaltshen subsequently. Tshemdrub involves working with thread and needle to produce designs while lhemdrub involves fixing the cut patches of either silk or brocade to produce bigger images. Monks normally practice the art of embroidery and appliqué.Monks produce large religious scrolls known as Thangkas that portray Buddhist deities and saints. Seven different kinds of embroidery are practiced: •\t Lhugtshem-light coloured embroidery •\t Sitshem- the bold coloured embroidery •\t Nyitshem- double-embroidery •\t Chagthagtshem- Iron-chain embroidery •\t Zurtshem- lining embroidery •\t Dongtshem- front embroidery •\t Chedtshem- outline embroidery a. Sewing Traditional Garments: Common practice among the people is lagtshem (hand sweing) or thrultshem (sewing by using a tailoring machine). These tailors are skilled at sewing the traditional Bhutanese garments. They stitch gho and kira, the national attires for men and women respectively. They also design and stitch tego and wonju (blouse) worn by Bhutanese women. Traditionally, lagtshem- to stitch costumes with bare hands using the thread and needles were practiced and were done mostly at home. Today, however, with the advancement in technologies, tailors use modern sewing machines, which are more effective and carried out with much ease.
Bhutan -
Yên Thế Festival
At its inception, this festival takes place on the 5th of first lunar month in commemoration of Hoàng Hoa Thám, also known as Đề Thám (Commander Thám), the farmer leader in the Yên Thế uprising against the French colonists. Since 1984, the festival has taken place in the third week of March. Main ceremonies of the festival include the palanquin procession ritual by Phồn Xương and Cầu Gỗ villages. An important ritual is the requiem of lost insurgent soldiers with traditional offerings. There are also strict rules on costumes for those who participate in the rituals. A flag salute ceremonies is re-enacted as it was conducted by the insurgent army in the past. Today, in order to make the festival more joyful, villagers incorporate a horse procession ritual and an exchange performance “Young men from Cầu Vồng and Yên Thế villages meet with young ladies from Nội Duệ and Cầu Lim”. Entertainment activities of the festival include such folk performances as martial art performance, gun shooting and archery contests, wrestling and quiz game about the Yên Thế Uprising.
Viet Nam -
Mak Yong theatre
This ancient theatre form created by Malaysia’s Malay communities combines acting, vocal and instrumental music, gestures and elaborate costumes. Specific to the villages of Kelantan in northwest Malaysia, where the tradition originated, Mak Yong is performed mainly as entertainment or for ritual purposes related to healing practices. Experts believe that Mak Yong appeared well before the Islamization of the country. It was performed as a royal theatre under the direct patronage of the Kelantan Sultanate until the 1920s. Hence, the tradition was perpetuated in a rural context without forsaking the numerous refinements acquired at court, such as sophisticated costume design. A typical Mak Yong performance opens with an offering followed by dances, acting and music as well as improvised monologues and dialogues. A single story can be presented over several consecutive nights in a series of three-hour performances. In the traditional village setting, the performances are held on a temporary open stage built of wood and palm leaves. The audience sits on three sides of the stage, the fourth side being reserved for the orchestra consisting of a three-stringed spiked fiddle (rebab), a pair of doubleheaded barrel drums (gendang) and hanging knobbed gongs (tetawak). Most roles are performed by women, and the stories are based on ancient Malay folk tales peopled with royal characters, divinities and clowns. Mak Yong is also associated with rituals in which shamans attempt to heal through song, trance-dance and spirit possession.
Malaysia 2008 -
Traditional craftsmanship of zodog and shuudag (wrestling costume)
One of the uniqueness of Mongolian wrestling is wrestling costumes which consist of a hat, zodog (jacket), shuudag (briefs), boots, stockings and boots’ bindings. Zodog (jacket) and shuudag (brief) are a traditional costume of Mongolian wrestlers. The costimes made of silk, textiles and stitched with pliable and strong threads afford a wrestler the ability to hold his opponent during the wrestling bout. Zodog and shuudag adapt themselves to the shape of wrestler’s brawny body. This tight costume greatly affords a wrestler’s comfort to move as well. Only a few specialized masters craft the zodog and shuudag by their hands.
Mongolia -
Lkhon Yike (Yike Theatre)
"Yike" is a popular theater among the locals. In the past, there was a Yike group in most district village to perform at important festivals or events in the community. During each performance, locals, young and old, come from everywhere to watch the performance. Therefore, the famous Yike performer is loved and remembered by the people around him or her forever. If the story is sad, the audiences often shed tears with the story without realizing it. Yike can be performed in both traditional and modern themes. When performing traditional repertoires, some characters such as giants, monkeys, Ei Sei, and Tlok (clown) all wear face masks, while male characters (kings or Devadas) wear sharp crowns, and some female characters (princesses, angels) wear crowns and Kbangs (another kind of headdress). Costumes are also very luxurious and elegant. However, it would change to adapt the story’s context. Spoken word and singing are the communication medium for the theater genre. Performers usually have to sing live, but if the characters do not sing well, they can lip singing. The accompanying music is Yi Ke music with 3 to 13 drums and 1 Tror. Tror is for opening the song and for the vocals of both the choir and the soloist to match. As for Sralai, it is used only in the song "Jeut" in the opening ceremony. Before starting to play, they have to do an opening ceremony or dance for their masters/spirits.There is music, singing and dancing, with a Yike teacher playing the drums and singing the opening song. Today, in addition to the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Yike remains in some provinces, such as Pursat, Kampot, Kampong Chhnang, Kampong Thom, Kampong Cham, and the most famous Yike troupe is in Takeo. Therefore, Yike theater can be different from one place to another. Today, Yike is included in the curriculum of the Secondary School of Fine Arts. Among the dramas performed in Yike theatre, "Tum Teav" is the most popular. The Yike performance of Tum Teav was first performed in 1967 at the Suramarit Theater. The well-known Yike teachers who passed away are Lok Ta Khi and Lok Ta Duong. The stories that were performed include: -\t"Tum Teav" was staged in 1967 by Professor Pich Tum Kravil Prof. Hang Thorn Hak and Prof. Chheng Phon -\t“Ah Neak Khak Kam” were staged in 1967 by Prof. Pich Tum Kravil and Prof. Vann Sunheng under the direction of Prof. Chheng Phon. -\t“Sovann Chankiri” staged in 1973 by Mr. Mom Soth -\t“Mak Theung” staged by Prof. Pich Tum Kravil, edited by Prof. Chheng Phon and Prof. Hang Thorn Hak. -\t“Loyal Commander” and “Oh! Ptei Srok Khmer” staged in 1973 under the direction of Mr. Reach Teng -\t"Hang Yun" was edited in 1994 by Mrs. Uy Lattavann -\t"Phka Sla Bei" was staged in 1995 by Mr. Mom Soth, Professor Pich Tum Kravil, Professor Hang Soth and Mr. Mao Keng. -\t"Tip Soda Chan" was staged in 1995 by Mr. Ieng Sithul and Mrs. Uy Lattavann under the direction of Professor Hang Soth, Professor Pich Tum Kravil and Mr. Mao Keng.
Cambodia -
Mongol Biyelgee, Mongolian traditional folk dance
Mongolian traditional folk dance “Bii Biyelgee” is an outstanding form among traditional performing arts of Mongolia, and unique and distinguished art expression which has embodied and originated from the nomadic living style of Mongols. Bii Biyelgee expresses the customs, traditions and spiritual practices through dancing elements, and its movements are typically confided to small space inside the Nomad’s dwelling-ger. Biyelgee is performed while half sitting or cross-legged sitting, coupled with fist and hand opening and waving, stiff and swift movements of chest and shoulders, shrugging and shaking them, crossing legs, steps and walks, as well as flexible body movements involved in prevalence. In doing so, biyelgee performers imitate the expressions of their lifestyle, household activities, courage, love, prides and livestock to the accompaniment of morin khuur, ikel khuur, tovshuur, tsuur, coupled with ethnic costumes.
Mongolia 2009