ALL
traditional craftsmanship
ICH Elements 45
-
Kushtdepdi rite of singing and dancing
Kushtdepdi rite of singing and dancing is a performing art combining the genres of creative poetizing focused on good feelings and wishes, its singing with vocal improvisation and dancing with movements of hands, gestures and footsteps in accordance with the tune of the song. The element serves as a tool and a medium for conveying good wishes for happiness, mutual respect, solidarity, social cohesion to the wide public and youth. The element is considered as an inseparable part of child birth ceremonies, wedding ceremonies and national celebrations. Its introductory part starts with singing poetic words of best wishes for well-being, happiness and sermon for the youth to keep close ties with elders that is performed by a seated group of respected women dressed in traditional costumes. Its next stage continues with inviting performers to start the rite and then the performance is led by singing of a couple of poetry singers (traditionally a woman and a man) with dances to the accompaniment of songs in a semi-closed or closed circles. Dancing movements start with three steps on right foot and then simultaneously tramping and clapping which are intended to drive maleficence and misfortune away from the future life. The element is performed at the end of events concluding in a positive note as a prayer to the nature for fertility, procreation, solidarity and peace.
Turkmenistan 2017 -
Qālišuyān rituals of Mašhad-e Ardehāl in Kāšān
Denoting ""carpet-washing ceremony"" (qāli""carpet""-šuyān""washing ceremony""), Qālišuyān manifests as a huge gathering in Ardehāl, at a 800m-long site, between Emāmzāde Soltān Ali ebn Mohammad Bāqer Mausoleum (abbreviated as Soltān Ali) and the holy stream beside Šāhzāde Hoseyn Mausoleum yard, where a holy carpet is washed as part of a live ritualistic procedure. Unlike the majority of Iranian rituals that follow a rotating lunar calendar, Qālišuyān is attended according to a fixed solar-agricultural calendar, requiring it around the nearest Friday to the 17th day of the month of Mehr (October 8th), called Jom'e-ye Qāli (""carpet Friday""). Thousands of people of Fin and Xāve constitute the practitioners; a greater crowd attends as witnesses. On Jom'e-ye Qāli morning, the people of Xāve gather at Soltān Ali to sprinkle rose-flower on a donated carpet they select. Having done the wrapping rituals, they, then, deliver it to the people of Fin outside. Holding neatly cut and beautifully decorated wooden sticks, the people of Fin run to take the lead in getting a grasp of the carpet, and carrying it to the running water, cleaned of pollutions and mixed with rose-water. A corner of the carpet is rinsed; the rest is covered with drops sprinkled with the sticks. The carpet is, then, returned to the mausoleum and delivered to the servants inside. The rituals are to express love and loyalty toward Soltān Ali, who is claimed to have been martyred in the same place and carried to his resting place on a carpet, instead of a shroud. Asserted, mainly, through oral history, Soltān Ali enjoyed a holy stance among the people of Kāšān and Fin of 1,300 years ago, who depended on his spiritual guidance. He was, finally, murdered by jealous governors. The story continues that the corpse was found, three days later, by the people of Fin who carried it in a carpet to the stream of Šāhzāde Hoseyn Mausoleum, Ardehāl, where the people of Xāve joined in washing and burying him. The present-day carpet-washing rituals are to commemorate the sad burial. A number of peripheral activities have emerged alongside Qālišuyān, too: - J ār: Oral proclamation of the ""carpet-Friday"" date by an elder; - Donated food: Distributed by witnessing people - Ta'ziye and other ritualistic performing arts: Performed peripheral to the main rituals; - Gatherings of people on the site, which last for several days.
Iran 2012 -
Gilamchilik (Carpet-weaving)
One of the most labor-intensive artistic crafts in Uzbekistan is carpet-making, the traditions of which go back to the ancient times. Cattle breeder has been rich for wool products and wool of sheep and camel used for carpet-making since olden time. Handmade carpet making is laborious work and it demands from the weaver great effort, taste and skill. In pre-mongolian period carpet items produced by Turkic tribes of Oghuz origin were especially popular. Later, during the epoch of Temurids, it is possible to observe active interaction of Iranian and Turkic carpet-making traditions. However, starting from the XVI century carpet items produced by Uzbeks from Dashti-qipchaq became widespread in Mawarannahr. Carpet items of Uzbekistan, in terms of execution technique, can be divided into long-piled, short-piled and pileless types. Women carpet-makers made various types of carpets. Among them it is possible to mention the following: piled carpets, which were laid under one's feet; panels called "bugdjoma", used for covering beds while moving from one house to another; carpet tapes called "kur" and "baskur", used for fixing framework of a jurt; pileless woolen rugs called "gadjari", "qokhma", "terme", "taqir gilam"; kit bags called "napramach"; saddlebags called "hurdjun", etc. Ornamental design of Uzbek carpet items reflected rich and diverse world of nomadic lifestyle. Their prevailing motifs were of cosmogonic and zoomorphic nature, and were expressed through orderly geometric lines and images.
Uzbekistan -
Embroidery art
Embroidery is a type of needlework. Beauty of Uzbek embroidery, ancient origins of its patterns and diversity of techniques applied indicate to the fact that this craft has passed a lengthy process of historical development, and has rich traditions. Large-sized decorative embroidery can be divided into several types: suzani (wall-mounted panels; literally - "needle"), nimsuzani (literally - "half of suzani"), ruyidjo, joypush yakkandoz and choyshab (bedspreads and bedsheets), takyanpush (pillow coverlet), oy-palak and gulkorpa (Tashkent versions of suzani), sandalipush (coverlet for sandal), zardevor, dorpech or kirpech (embroidery used for decorating upper parts of walls), joynamoz (prayer rug), bugdjoma (coverlet for blanket), beshikpush (coverlet for cradle), etc. Embroidered items of small size are represented by oyna-khalta and shona-khalta (sacks for keeping mirror and comb), qiyiqcha, miyonband, chorsu and belbogh (versions of men's waist kerchiefs), doppi (skullcap), sarpokkun, qoziqlungi and tanpokkun (long towels with embroidered ends), bugjoma (linen used for wrapping dress), sarandoz and romoli-peshonaband (types of head shawls and headdresses for women), dast romol (handkerchiefs), jiyak (embroidered edges used for decorating certain elements of a dress), etc. Ornamental pattern and composition of embroidery depended on its practical purpose (i.e. for what purposes it was used). Main embroidery motifs are symbols of cosmogonic origin (i.e. sun, moon, stars in the form of large and small rosettes), vegetative and geometric patterns, stylized images of animals and birds. For embroidery of Uzbekistan peculiar is application of distinct technique of sewing, i.e. complete sewing of large surfaces of the pattern, and leaving (relatively) small area for the background. Also, different types of one-sided satin-stitch and chain-stitch are used, which fill motifs of an ornament completely. Satin-stich can be of two types, i.e. "bosma" and "kanda-hayol". There are different types, patterns and traditions of embroidery, depending on their belonging to their respective regions: Bukhara, Fergana, Shakhrisabz, Nurata, Tashkent, Fergana, etc.
Uzbekistan -
Margilan Crafts Development Centre, safeguarding of the atlas and adras making traditional technologies
Historically, Margilan was the centre for making atlas and adras – vivid and fine traditional fabrics. Due to the acute need to revive and safeguard traditions at risk of disappearing, the local community came up with an initiative to launch the Crafts Development Centre (CDC) in 2007. The CDC’s goal is to safeguard, develop and promote the method of Uzbek traditional atlas and adras making through innovative training sessions, exhibitions and craft fairs, traditional textile festivals, and the publication of safeguarding materials and manuals. The CDC also promotes the use of natural materials, and supports the transmission of knowledge and skills about nature and the universe and their role in ensuring people’s health and wellbeing.
Uzbekistan 2017 -
Naqqoshlik (ornament-making) art
Naqqoshlik is drawing an ornament - a pattern built on rhythmic alternation and a combination of geometric or graphic elements, performed by means of painting, drawing, sculpture or embroidery. Uzbek national patterns have their own names, going back in history. Traditional Uzbek ornament is found in decorative art embroideries, in wood carvings, in paintings on clay and ceramics, on Uzbek fabrics, on buildings. At the heart of the ornament is a picture of simple things. For example, knives are designed to protect, a flowering garden is a symbol of fertility and agriculture. Each flower carries information: a scarlet poppy - the image of an innocent girl, a tulip - a symbol of purity, a rose - peace and beauty, wildflowers - a young man. Often, a different meaning was embedded in the image of flowers. For example, they believed that they carried healing power and health. The ornament creates a vector image in which a magical meaning is laid, reflecting the course of human life. This is an oriental vector style with geometric patterns. Geometric patterns have abstract forms: - zigzag lines - circles - polyhedra - stars - ornamental motifs - meander - human figures - stylized inscriptions. Ethnic patterns are folklore images, folk motifs in which a creative union of religion and culture is concluded. They carry a semantic and ritual load.
Uzbekistan -
Calligraphy art
Calligraphy is one of the branches of fine art, it is also often called the art of beautiful writing. Calligraphers of Central Asia actively developed their craft and thus brought it to the level of art. There were even separate schools of calligraphy: Tashkent, Kokand, Khorezm, Samarkand and Bukhara. Each school had its own distinctive features, and experts could easily determine who wrote this or that inscription. Various styles of Arabic writing began to be used in architecture, carving and painting on ganch and wood. She was even present in the design of household utensils, clothing and other types of artistic creation. Among the most common writing styles are naskh, raikhani, rivo, suls, kufic and others.
Uzbekistan -
Traditional craftsmanship of zodog and shuudag (wrestling costume)
One of the uniqueness of Mongolian wrestling is wrestling costumes which consist of a hat, zodog (jacket), shuudag (briefs), boots, stockings and boots’ bindings. Zodog (jacket) and shuudag (brief) are a traditional costume of Mongolian wrestlers. The costimes made of silk, textiles and stitched with pliable and strong threads afford a wrestler the ability to hold his opponent during the wrestling bout. Zodog and shuudag adapt themselves to the shape of wrestler’s brawny body. This tight costume greatly affords a wrestler’s comfort to move as well. Only a few specialized masters craft the zodog and shuudag by their hands.
Mongolia -
Archery
Archery is one of the Three Manly Sports and it has its ancient roots. The distance of the contemporary sport of archery is 45 feet or 75-80 meters. The shooting targets made by weaving leather strips into a tub-shape. There are two forms of shooting targets. One is a walled target, another is an individual target. The wall target is the arrangement of targets in a stack. The individual target is the arrangement of targets in row. The archers can use only blunted arrows. Then two shooting teams alternately shoot and test their skills. During the archery, archers say ‘Khurai, khurai, khurai’, the encouragement of archers to shoot. The winners are awarded with title of Mergen or ‘good marksman’ and an epithet.
Mongolia -
Zardozlik (gold embroidery)
Type of traditional embroidery which was widely spread in applied design art of Uzbekistan, Gold embroidery was revived at the middle of XXth Century. It's formation goes back to ancient history. At the end of the XIX – beginning of the ХХ century especially Bukhara was the center of crafts associated with gold embroidery. Notably, at that time gold embroidery was mostly dealt by men. But in some cases, when there were more orders than expected, women (who were close relatives of gold embroiderers) could act in the role of assistants. Bukhara gold embroiderers applied several methods of embroidering. These were: 1) "zardozi-zamindozi" – solid embroidering of the background with gold threads 2) "zardozi-guldozi" – embroidering based on design (image), which is cut out from paper 3) "zardozi-guldozi-zamindozi" – a combined method of embroidering, which unites the above-mentioned two methods 4) "zardozi-berishimdozi" –combined embroidering 5) "zardozi-pulakchadozi" –gold embroidering with spangles. Ornamentation in gold embroidery was predominantly of vegetative nature. Geometric patterns were used less often. Main motifs were rosettes, palmettes, bushes, trees, branches, flowerpots with flowers, almonds, pomegranates, cherries and grapes. Usage of certain vegetative motifs, for example, of "guli-chinni" (chrysanthemum), "guli-qashqari" (Kashgar flower), testify to the fact that pictures of Chinese porcelain (since ancient times it was imported to Central Asia and was popular among elites of Bukhara in the XIX – beginning of the XX century), were borrowed and adapted by Bukhara gold embroiderers.
Uzbekistan -
Ganchkarlik (ganch-alabaster plastering and carving)
Ganchkarlik (plastering and carving special alabaster – ganch) is one of the most ancient types of architectural-decorative arts of Uzbekistan. In the ХХ century its main centers were located in Khiva, Bukhara, Tashkent, Samarkand, Andijan, Namangan and Qoqand. Ganch carving art is indivisibly connected with architectural art than other types of applied folk art. From time immemorial, it has been used for decorating palaces, madrasahs, mosques and houses. The technique of creating a pattern on ganch surface is labor-intensive one. First, on the raw surface draft picture of the future ornamental pattern is drawn. Then, relief pattern is cut along the outline, while the background is deepened and salient parts of the pattern are finished. Also, special skill requires the work on relief pattern, because the effect of perception of the whole carved panel depends on it. As a matter of fact, Uzbek masters have developed many techniques of finishing relief patterns, which make carved panels look more dynamic, their salient and deepened parts more expressive thanks to the effect of light and shade.
Uzbekistan -
Blacksmithing
Blacksmith business is one of the oldest folk crafts in Uzbekistan. For many centuries, the country has been one of the largest centers of craft production, including the art of metalworking. In Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent, Kokand, Margilan and other places there are unique workshops where knowledge is transferred from generation to generation, from master to student. Thus, ancient traditions are preserved, and the family of hereditary masters continues. At the blacksmith’s shop, the oven, qura, supa, ura, chupkunda; and instruments sandons, bosqon, hammers, bulls, eaves, mills, and others are used. Hammersmiths make various things such as hoes, mowers, tesha and other household items, doors, gratings etc.
Uzbekistan