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Sericulture and traditional production of silk for weaving marks_1
  • Manage No, Sortation, Country, Writer ,Date, Copyright
    Manage No EE00002507
    Country Iran,Turkey,Afghanistan,Uzbekistan,Tajikistan,Turkmenistan,Azerbaijan
    ICH Domain Oral traditions and representations Social practices, rituals, festive events Knowledge and practices about nature and the universe Traditional craft skills
    Address
    In Afghanistan, sericulture and traditional production of silk for weaving are widely practiced, however they are more famous at Herat, Balkh, Kunduz, Badakhshan, Jowzjan and Sari-pul. In Azerbaijan, sericulture and silk weaving are safeguarded by communities in such regions and cities as Shamakhi, Zagatala, Gakh, Balaken, Ordubad, Barda, Ganja, Sheki, Basqal, and Shusha. Many Azerbaijanis living abroad consider the element a part of their cultural identity. In Islamic Republic of Iran, fortunately, this element could be found in almost all provinces across Iran, particularly in some provinces namely Khorasan Razavi, South Khorasan, North Khorasan, Golestan, Gilan, Mazandaran, Qom, Isfahan, East Azerbaijan, West Azerbaijan, Kerman, and Kurdistan. In Turkey, the element is widely known all across the country and raw silk obtained especially from Bursa, Bilecik, Adapazarı, Balıkesir, Kocaeli, Edirne, Yalova, Eskişehir, Diyarbakır Muğla, İzmir, Hatay, Antalya, Bolu, Batman, Aydın and Ankara provinces. In Tajikistan, the tradition of sericulture and silk spinning is widely known in 52 cities and districts in different regions of the country, including the cities of Khujand, Ghafurov, Shahritus, Vakhsh, Qubodiyon, and Vose, Jabbor Rasulov, Asht districts. In Turkmenistan, the element is available within all territory of Turkmenistan including Akhal, Balkan, Dashoguz, Mary, and Lebap provinces. In Uzbekistan sericulture, silk-reeling was widely advanced in Silk Road cities– Ferghana, Samarkand, Shahrisybz, Bukhara and Turkestan. At present, people of Ferghana, Andijan, Namangan, Samarkand, Navoi, Bukhara, and Khorezm are busy with larvae cultivation, craftsmanship and in sphere of its trade.\
Description In all submitting states, sericulture and traditional production of silk for weaving includes series of practices traditional knowledge, skills and crafts of the communities concerned related to growing mulberry trees, breeding silkworms, producing silk threads, for weaving and other purposes. Farmers grow mulberry trees that provide leaves upon which the worms feed, then produce silkworm eggs and ensure care of the silkworm (feeding with mulberry leaves) from the egg stage until the completion of the cocoon (turning matured silkworms to cocoons). Communities then produce silk by reeling from the silk threads, weave silk fabrics and use the fabrics in crafts. Craftspeople of both genders produce raw silk by means of raising larvae, particularly those of the domesticated silkworm to form the cocoon within which the larvae develop. The silkworm builds its cocoon by surrounding itself with a long fibre or filament. Fed by fresh mulberry leaves, silkworms start to spin their silken cocoons after 26-28 days. The whole process begins in March to September depending on the climate. The cocoons are collected before pupa pierces its cocoon and then those collected cocoons are dried. Silk containing sericin is called “raw silk”. The gummy substance is usually retained until the yarn or fabric stage and is removed by boiling the silk in soap and water. Communities then bathe cocoons which then soften and allow for the peak of the thread to be obtained. In order to obtain raw silk, several cocoons that gave the threads are put on reeling process at the same time. In order to clean up and to dry, obtained raw silk is taken from reel and hanged on the reed. In the preparation for the weaving process, people twist threads and unwind warps. After drawing-in and wimple is made ready, the weaving process begins. In order to remove cerasine fabrics, woven with raw silk yarn, people boil the fabrics in water containing soap. After boiling process, communities color and trace the fabrics by using various traditional methods. Craftspeople use the silk threads to create various types of craft products, such as fabrics, carpets. The products of silk are very much appreciated within the communities, who use them at various social and cultural occasions, including weddings, funerals and family gatherings. Deeply rooted in the traditions of the Great Silk Road, sericulture and traditional production of silk for weaving are an expression of cultural identity, centuries-old traditions and a symbol of social cohesion. While the silk trade has been carried out throughout the centuries, it has allowed spreading the silk culture, health and science among communities of the submitting states. In all submitting states silk functions as the symbol of splendor, elegance and spring. In all submitting states, silk producers are mostly villagers and they work cooperatively and they have special ceremonies for silk when it is produced.
Social and cultural significance Throughout centuries, communities, traders, governments and general public have used silk products for many reasons. Silk as a precious commodity has been utilized by all social and cultural classes of people in all submitting states. Some of the artifacts of the element are neckerchiefs, clothes, scarves, shirts, ties etc. In addition, people use silk fabrics to make curtains, bed linen, silk tapestry etc. People are also used to keep household goods made of silk in the most beautiful corners of the house. For the farmers, mulberry tree growing, silkworm breeding and cocoon making represent an important part of cultural identity, a family occupation carefully transmitted from generation to generation, allowing to permanently interact with nature. Silkworm breeding and cocooning are mostly done in groups or collectively. This craftsmanship brings family, relatives and neighbors closer together, they exchange of knowledge and skills related to the element from each other, as well as exchange silkworm eggs, silkworm feeding and tools for silkworm caring. For its craftspeople, the traditional silk production and weaving represents a source of particular pride, as the masters and apprentices are highly appreciated within the society as talented bearers of skills and knowledge about universe represented in the symbols and motifs of the silk fabrics and carpets. For masters and their apprentices, sericulture and traditional silk production and weaving represent an essential element of their role and position within society, skills that they have inherited from their own ancestors. In some of the submitting countries each stage of silkworm development and its indications are described by the bearers with special words and phrases. There is also a number of legends, songs, proverbs and sayings about silkworm, silk spinning and silk itself. Public audiences consider silk as a sign of elegance and aesthetics. They buy and use silk fabrics and carpets which have been traditionally made as highly-valued commodities which require patience and great efforts. Moreover motifs, symbols and patterns reflected on these fabrics, carpets and products constitute a part of their identity. Many people continue to keep silk fabrics, carpets, rugs and products as family treasures and pass them on to the next generation as family treasures. Generally, silk products especially clothes and bags are used in wide range of events ceremonies and celebrations related to the element will contribute to the organization and arrangement of the lives of communities and groups. It forms a sense of self-esteem and connection to the past in people (regardless of gender, religion, race, social origin) and strengthens existing values.
Transmission method In all submitting states silk culture which includes the whole process from sericulture to the end silk products, its transmission is conducted mostly through master-apprentice methods such as cocoon production silk threads and weaving. The traditional knowledge and skills related to sericulture and traditional production of silk for weaving have been shaped by communities concerned through centuries generation by generation. They have been transmitted to young family members in oral tradition and through active participation of younger generation while practicing the knowledge. Younger generation learns the element through observation, imitation and collaboration with elders. Moreover, some institutions, universities and non-governmental organizations ensure the formal transmission of the element by holding courses, workshops and seminars as well as other safeguarding measures including documentation, promotion and research. These formal courses have been combined field experiences under the guidance of sericulture farmers and silk producers to make sure that good practices of safeguarding are systematically shared. A number of young practitioners who are not family members of the farmers or craftspeople learn the element through master-apprentice relationship.
Community Azerbaijan: The main bearers of the element are farmers – silk breeders and silk weavers (both members of the same families, as well as masters and apprentices). Some farmers have established their enterprises and cooperatives. Silk weavers are often members of local NGOs and associations. Iran: There are many sericulture farmers, silk producers and NGOs e.g. Payandans & Jabaris families as farmers and Mokhtari family as silk producer. Mr. Abbasi, CEO of Gilan Association for Supporting Cultural-Natural Heritage, Mr Vosoughinezhad, CEO of Cooperative Company for Rural Silk Production. Turkey: Sericulture farmers and Kozabirlik (Cocoon Sale Cooperatives Union of Bursa/Cocoon Union), craftsman involved in silk weaving and Silk Museum under the auspices of Bursa Metropolitan Municipality, academicians and related NGO’s constitute the concerned community. Tajikistan: LLC “VT-Silk”, LLC ”Duk”, OJSC “Pillai Tojik” are considered as the main sericulture farms in Tajikistan. There are also families directly involved in sericulture, such as the Rahimovs family (13 people), the Dolboevs’ (9 people), the Sattorovs’ and the Otaboevs’ families. Turkmenistan: Silkworm breeding families, cocoon farmers, educators and agricultural university students. Plants and factories specializing in the production of raw silk and silk products (Interregional protection association "Yupek") scientists and specialists of the Academy of Sciences of Turkmenistan. They are located throughout Turkmenistan. Uzbekistan: LLC “Surkhon Silk”, Sericulture farmers, silk producers are engaged in the element: from production of silk worms to making silk. Many home-based artisans e.g Abdullaev’s and Mirzzakhmedov’s families (members of NGO’s and Associations) participate in various stages of silk production
Type of UNESCO List Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Incribed year in UNESCO List 2022
Keyword
Information source
ICHCAP