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Traditional skills of carpet weaving in Kashan
The carpets woven in the city of Kashan can be defined as follows. Spreadable hand-woven materials consisting of a basic structure of strings made of cotton or silk interwoven in millimeter scales known as warp (Tar or Toon) on an erected framework known as ‘Dar’, while by means of wool or silk strings, and based on a colored design, appropriate knotting in harmony with the delicacy of the carpet are created on the surface.
In the weaving style of Kashan, after each row of knots, cotton strings are extended two times from within the warps in horizontal direction known as ‘woofs’. Woofs are divided in two categories in terms of thickness: thick woof or under-woof is almost of the same thickness of warps, while thin woof or top-woof is as thick as reel strings. These woofs are pressed on woven knots by means of combs and make the carpet more strong and delicate. This style, known as Farsi weaving has a background of four hundred years in Kashan which is the pioneer of this style.
The skills and elements involved in the process of production of these hand-woven carpets can be divided in certain categories:
Carpeting Tools:
1- Weaving frame: is a wooden or metal framework consisting of two vertical columns and two
horizontal beams. In addition, certain wooden accessories are used to reinforce the frame (wedges), while in metal frames, knots and jacks are also used. In order to control and move the strings in the course of weaving, two thin layers of woods are used.
2- Comb: is used for pressing the woofs after each row of weaving to make the carpet stronger and more delicate.
3- Stick: it is a metal belt with the width of 2 centimeters and length of 60 centimeters used to lead the woofs from among the warps.
4- Scissors: for cutting the tips of the woven strings after a number of rows as well as for leveling the surface of the carpet.
5- Bench: as a seat for the weaver, made of wood or metal.
Carpeting Materials:
1- Warp: prepared multi-layered cotton or silk strings in proportion to delicacy of the carpet and required by the design will establish the basic structure of the carpet. In Kashan style, the warps are drawn on the ground and mantles on the frame.
2- Khameh: woolen two-layered colored strings in various sizes for knotting to warps in 90 degrees angle which serve as the thickness of carpet in appropriate sizes.
3- Woofs: cotton strings in two thicknesses: thick woofs equal in thickness with the warps, and thin woofs as thick as ordinary reel strings which are led through the warps after each row of weaving and is pressed with comb which strengthens the carpet. In full-silk carpets, silk woofs are applied.
Design: in order to prepare the design of the carpet, which is the most artistic activity involved in
carpeting, certain rules are followed, the most significant of which can be summarized as follows:
A) Drawing is the general form and the first impression of the carpet which makes the basic design of the carpet in the first glance.
The procedure that is followed in Kashan is as follows:
1- Lachak-Toranj design: is this design limited by a background cadre and consists of a central oval shape known as Toranj and rectangular surrounding shapes known as Lachak. Each Toranj has four surrounding Lachaks. Sometimes, the Toranj is in circular form, known as Shemeh. Lachaks are normally in harmony with Toranj.
2- Toranjafshan Design: the design consists merely of a Toranj in the middle covered with symmetrical flower and leaf designs, without Lachak. If the surface is without flowers and leaves and other forms, the design is known as simple Lachak-Toranj.
3- Lachakafshan: There is no Toranj in the design, only four Lachaks around. The remaining portion of the design is covered with flowers, leaves, and other symmetrical shapes.
4- Mehrabi Design: The surface is normally without Toranj. Only to Lachaks are located on the top corner, with ornamental religious designs. The surface is simple with an urn or columns around.
5- Overall design: a basic design theme is repeated all over the surface. Single forms such as Botteh-Jegheh, scattered bouquets, frames, flowers, etc are repeated over the surface.
6- Koomeh Design: short scattered trees together with birds and animals.
B) Design is the combination of drawings, paintings, flowers, leaves, branches, animals and other forms which enliven the basic drawings by applying colors, each with its respective artistic identity inspired by nature, buildings, historical events, movements of living animals, and background mentalities of the designer and painter.
Dyeing:
Colors and dyeing materials: natural colors are more popular in Kashan, such as Ronas, walnut skin, pomegranate skin, vine leaves, etc. except for Ronas, other materials are among the waste natural materials. The masters of dyeing create very stable and beautiful color mixtures by using
various types of natural pigments.
Farsi weaving style also known as asymmetrical knotting is applied with exemplary delicacy in
Kashan
so that the back side of the carpet is made with equal longitudinal and latitudinal knots.
Iran
2010